One to two weeks of immobilization with a finger-immobilization splint or a pulley-protection splint, available online. Gentle range-of-motion exercises. H-taping (see below) for three months while climbing.
How can I climb longer and stronger with a pulley injury?
Use all four fingers, gently pull on the edge just to the point of feeling pain over the pulley. Now back the pressure off until no pain or only very mild pain is felt, this is where you will do the hold. Pull for 5 seconds, 5 reps. Now pull with three fingers (index, middle, ring). 5 second hold, 5 reps.
How common are pulley injuries in rock climbing?
Nov 28, 2018 · Static Stretching Prayer stretch: Place the palms together in front of the chest with the fingers pointing up. Rotate the palms forward... Wrist and finger flexor stretch: Straighten one elbow, and reach that arm forward with your palm up. With your other...
Why is pulley management important for climbers?
The Pulley Sprain Program is a rehabilitation and injury prevention plan specifically for rock climbers who have pain in the front of their finger.
How can I heal from a pulley injury?
Sep 17, 2019 · Finger pulley tweaks are the most common climbing injury. No one is immune—not beginner, intermediate, nor elite climbers. The prudent response to a “tweak” (minor pain while crimping) is to take a few weeks off from climbing and, after an initial period of total rest (<7 days), to engage in daily rehab that cautiously loads the finger tendons and ligaments …
How long does a pulley take to heal?
6-8 weeks is the recommended time to return to FULL climbing activities, but again you'll work your way up to that. Immobilization is necessary this time to protect the injured tissue, and 10 days is indicated.Dec 3, 2017
Can you still climb with a pulley injury?
Full A2 pulley tear: This requires the most patience and dedication. You should expect to not return to full climbing until at least 3 months post injury. 4 months would be even safer before pushing the tissue too hard. You can resume easy climbing after 6-8 weeks BUT this means EASY.Jun 3, 2020
How do you train to climb with a pulley injury?
Strength Level 1Decrease pulley load with therapeutic taping techniques.Improve mobility of the fingers with tendon glides.Regain pain-free finger range of motion.Strengthen the muscles that stabilize the fingers.Mirror rock climbing grips with specific strengthening exercises.More items...•Mar 16, 2022
How long does a finger pulley take to heal?
With mild pulley strains, the full activity can be resumed as soon as swelling and pain have subsided. For full ruptures that are being treated non-surgically, duration of treatment is typically between one and three months.Jul 12, 2020
How do I strengthen my finger pulley?
0:091:59Rock Climbing Pulley Sprain Exercises - YouTubeYouTubeStart of suggested clipEnd of suggested clipPull down on the rubber band. And press your finger up into the band without changing. Position. ByMorePull down on the rubber band. And press your finger up into the band without changing. Position. By training your finger extensors in this half crimp. Position you'll have a better carryover.
How do you train a finger pulley?
Place a rubber-band around the tips of your fingers while maintaining a straight wrist. Spread your fingers without bending your wrist. Hold this position, then let your fingers collapse back in. Use several rubber bands around your fingers to increase the resistance.Nov 25, 2021
Does ice help pulley injury?
Absolutely yes, to both. In past years, ice has been shown to limit pain, swelling, blood flow, and metabolism in the injured tissue.
What should you do immediately after a pulley injury?
Warm-up, begin with easy routes, don't push through the pain, and stop for rest after 2-3 attempts. Technique is important. Climbing with smooth, precise whole body moments can put less strain on your fingers.
When to return to climbing with pulley strain?
You can expect to return to light climbing at around week 3 and expect to return to higher levels or near full by week 6+. You will want to use a dedicated scale such as a V point system to control your number of climbs. You should start with all easy climbs and work your way up
What is the A2 pulley?
The A2 is one of the most important pulleys in our hands. It’s what allows us to hold onto those tiny edges without the other parts of our finger essentially just coming apart. But how? It’s just a piece of tissue holding another tissue in place.
Why do we use A2 pulleys?
The crimping position creates an angle that puts significant stress on the part of the A2 pulley closest to the proximal interphalangeal joint, which is why it is usually the first to go. In day to day use this doesn’t pose a problem, but when we subject our fingers to extraordinary forces we can exceed the limit the A2 can handle, which can then cause the flexor tendon to tear partially or completely through the pulley. If the force is great enough even the A3, A4, and A5 pulleys could then rupture as well.
What happens when you flex your finger?
So when you flex your finger, the tendon slides back and forth under the pulley while the pulleys keep it in position. So what happens when we actually hold something with our fingers, or in other words, ...
What is the difference between a partial tear and a full tear?
A pulley partial tear would have mild to moderate swelling. A full tear would have moderate to severe swelling. Palpation. Palpation, the process of using your hands to check the body for pain or other irregularities, is the second process in evaluating our injury.
Which protocol produces the greatest acute hormonal elevations?
Protocols high in volume, moderate to high in intensity, using short rest intervals and stressing a large muscle mass, tend to produce the greatest acute hormonal elevations (e.g. testosterone, GH and the catabolic hormone cortisol) compared with low-volume, high-intensity protocols using long rest intervals. (1)
Should you do exercises if you are at risk for injury?
As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.
How to do a pulley pull?
Use all four fingers, gently pull on the edge just to the point of feeling pain over the pulley. Now back the pressure off until no pain or only very mild pain is felt, this is where you will do the hold. Pull for 5 seconds, 5 reps. Now pull with three fingers (index, middle, ring). 5 second hold, 5 reps.
Why are pulleys important?
The pulley’s prevent “bowstringing” of the tendon while the tendon is under load. Injury to the pulley’s are common among rock climbers. Proper management of pulley injuries is crucial for a full return to sport and to decrease the chance of re-injury.
Where is the A2 pulley located?
The A2 Pulley is located at the base of your finger near the junction with your palm. The A1 pulley is more in the palm itself, over the MCP (Metacarpal Phalangeal Joint). Treatment for a mild to moderate injury requires a balance of protection, scar mitigation, and progressive loading strategies for the injured tissues.
What is the most common pulley injury?
Volker Schöffl and Dr. Isabelle Schöffl. The A2 pulley is the most commonly injured in climbers because it’s subject to greater outward forces than the others.
What is rock rehab?
The rock rehab protocols are specific to one injury and provide a step-by-step protocol, timeline, and exercise videos that can be used in conjunction with self performed diagnostic tests to help climbers rehabilitate injury.
What are the muscles that support the forearm?
The forearm muscles transition into long, narrow tendons as they extend into the wrist and fingers. These tendons thread through fibrous sheaths and pulleys, which keep them gliding flush to the finger bones, similar to the way a climbing rope runs through quickdraws. In each finger, there are five annular pulleys, which sling around the front of the bones like the eyelets of a fishing rod, and three cruciform pulleys, which form crosses over the bones, to secure the tendons. When the forearm muscles contract, they pull these tendons and flex the fingers. If the finger flexor tendons create too strong of an outward force – something that can happen if you pull hard on a mono pocket, for example – they can stretch, tear or completely rupture a pulley. Pulley sprains are classified into four grades (see table below) according to severity, based on research by Dr. Volker Schöffl and Dr. Isabelle Schöffl. The A2 pulley is the most commonly injured in climbers because it’s subject to greater outward forces than the others.
How to prevent pulley injury?
Proper footwork and avoiding intense dynamic movements may decrease the risk of pulley injuries by reducing overgripping or shockloading of the fingers. As a rule, avoid dynamic movements, especially to crimps, and focus on slow, precise footwork and core engagement. Note any pain or twinges to prevent further injury.
How to heal myofascial restrictions?
To further help healing, check for myofascial restrictions (aka trigger points) in the wrist and finger flexor muscles in the forearm and apply direct pressure to any area that feels tight or tender; hold for 2–3 minutes, feeling for a release of the restriction.
What does it mean when your flexor tendon is hurting?
A loud “pop” and then significant swelling and pain often indicate damage to the flexor-tendon pulleys. For A2 pulley injuries, the most common pulley injury for climbers, the pain usually arises at the base of the finger and is noticeable when trying to straighten or bend the finger. For A2–A4 ruptures, there may be bowstringing—bulging at the base of the finger—which can be detected by resisting finger bending at the fingertip. (In this latter case, consult an orthopedic surgeon, as it can indicate a serious, grade 4 tear; see “Treatment.”)
How to deal with finger injuries?
Prevention. The best way to deal with finger injuries is to not get them in the first place. Prevention requires warming up well, climbing with proper technique, and static stretching.
What to do if you get injured?
If you get injured, first seek a diagnosis from a climbing-knowledgeable physician or orthopedic surgeon, who can assess the damage with an ultrasound or MRI. This will help determine the level of care needed as well as rule out damage to nearby structures.
How long should you hold a static stretch?
Static Stretching. This involves holding a stretch for at least 30 seconds, two to three times . Static stretching is best reserved for rest days and post-climbing, as some studies have shown that static stretching prior to an activity can decrease performance.
How to stretch your arms and arms?
Prayer stretch: Place the palms together in front of the chest with the fingers pointing up. Rotate the palms forward toward the floor until you feel a good stretch. Wrist and finger flexor stretch: Straighten one elbow, and reach that arm forward with your palm up.
What is the taping method used on the first phalanx?
While many climbers tape their fingers for hard and crimpy projects using the circular taping method on the first phalanx (to support the A2 pulley) research has shown this provides little support.
Who said "Getting strong without getting injured is hard"?
The cutting-edge technical free climber Wolfgang Gullich once said, “Getting strong is easy, getting strong without getting injured is hard.” Nearly all climbers will be injured during their climbing careers, it’s just a matter of when and how.